Self Sewn Wardrobe Series -- Modified Dress No 2

The 6th class in the Self Sewn Wardrobe Series is to do a variation of Shirt No 1. Some fun options of a button down, exposed zipper, a flutter/scallop bottom, or bias bottom. Alas, I'm done with Shirt No 1 so decided to make a variation of Dress No 2.

With Niku's help, we made a yoke for the dress, and then I made myself a cuff pattern and shortened the sleeves to 3/4 length. I made a quick muslin, and we made a small adjustment to the yoke to try and accommodate the extra material around the armpit.

I still have too much fabric in the high bust, so will make a few more modifications, but overall I'm happy where I'm going with this pattern.

Sailor Top

I've had this pattern for a while, and finally got around to sewing the Sailor Top. Instructions are awesome and it was a fairly quick sew.

With my 45.5" bust, I went ahead and used the XXL size (the largest available). The finished measurements are 47.5" The top fits, but think it will be better if I go ahead and grade up so I have a bit more room. I'll definitely make this again.

Giraffe top

Back in early October I scheduled a private lesson at Lockstitch and Lustre to figure out why I was so unhappy with the tops I had been sewing. It was very informative. I brought in 3 different shirts, and they all really had the same issue...too much material in the high bust. We picked one pattern (Simplicity 1461) and modified it. The fall was crazy for me at work, and I never got around to trying the pattern again. I had wanted to use it to make a giraffe top as a Halloween costume.

I'm really happy with the fit, and am excited for Halloween already!

Self Sewn Wardrobe Series - Dress No 2 - With finished binding

I added a pop of orange binding to finish off dress no 2. I really like the contrast. Unfortunately I'm not happy with the neck at all. It's too high in the back and I have a fair bit of gaping. I like this pattern though and think it will be fun to make some variations off it.

Shirt No 1 -- Quest for Fit

I really wasn't happy with the extra fabric in the armpit area when I made the next size up of Shirt No 1. I decided to tackle how to make it fit. I pulled out a couple of tops that have the kimono style/dolman sleeve. I looked at them compared them to my finished shirt and decided to try making the top sleeve angle more, and add the bit I was taking out to the bottom of the sleeve. It was a subtle difference, but I felt like I was getting somewhere. I still had a lot of extra fabric in the armpit. I decided to take in the pattern a 1/2" along the area with the extra fabric. So I slashed the pattern and taped it back a 1/2" in. It looked better, but really I was back at the original size with a few minor adjustments. Or I'm just overly sensitive to the extra fabric and it's not noticeable by anyone but me, and I did all of this for not.

It was a good exercise, but I have decided this type of top is not for me.

XL with only length modification

XL with shoulder seams at a stronger angle

XL with a 1/2" taking in through the upper bust

Really no different from the L

Self Sewn Wardrobe Series - Dress No 2

Dress No 2 is the third project in the series. I wound up making 3 muslins as I was concerned again about the fit in my bust. I started again with my high bust measurement, but could barely get it on. The next size up fit a little better but was snug and definitely didn't give me enough room in the arms. The next size is better. I'm still a bit worried about extra fabric, but am probably going to just go with it.

Here are the finished bust measurements from my muslin. Remember I'm a bit inconsistent with seam allowances so mileage my vary.
L - 47.5"
XL - 48.5"
2XL - 49.5"

I bought some wearable muslin fabric (aka quilting cotton on sale at Joanns). I'm actually pretty pleased with the fit. I'm reserving judgement until I finish the neckline.